Saturday 8 February 2014

Gentlemen and Hooligans

On the antipathy between football and rugby...



The Six Nations rugby championship is currently underway, providing one of the few moments of the year when the sporting spotlight here is not 100% focussed on football. Of course not everybody is excited about it, but that’s ok, isn’t it? It seems not. In fact it seems for some sports fans the passion of the love of their sport is matched only by their antipathy towards supposedly rival sports.

I’ll nail my colours to the mast immediately: I love both football and rugby (bisportual?), and really can’t understand the need of some people to be so negative towards the others. If you like one of the sports more than the other, fine, but why not let the other side get on and enjoy themselves?

There is without a doubt a class element to the rivalry, which while not necessarily a defining factor, certainly cannot be ignored. Rugby is seen as elitist, the game of the public schools and ruling classes, whereas football is considered a working man’s game. Rugby was famously invented at a grammar school, and many of its fans and participants still come from that kind of environment. Indeed if you look at Rugby World magazine, they still have comprehensive coverage of (public) schools rugby, and in all their player profiles list which school the player in question attended. Does anybody have any idea which schools any of our football stars went to? No, partly because it’s irrelevant, but also because the overwhelming majority will have attended state schools.

With this kind of background, it’s fair to say a lot of rugby fans can be awful snobs. The famous old quote that “football is a gentleman’s game played by hooligans, while rugby is a hooligans’ game played by gentlemen” still holds sway. Rugby folk see football as a game for effeminate weaklings. One of the reasons I stopped buying Rugby World were the constant unchecked references to “Wendyball” in the letters pages. Like much of the rivalry, petty and unnecessary.

In fact the constant comparisons with football by rugby people could be said to show insecurity and even envy on their part – envy that football is by far the most popular sport on the planet. Another reason I stopped buying Rugby World and sometimes find TV rugby commentary and analysis irritating is the number of football references. Too often you read of such and such a team being “the Manchester United of rugby”, or errors near the try line described as “like missing an open goal”. How often do you hear Arsenal or Chelsea described as the Saracens or Harlequins of football, or a chip forward described as a box kick? Football is secure in its position at the top of the tree so does not need to make such comparisons. Rugby would do well to recognise the hypocrisy of making references to football while simultaneously criticising it.

The issue of cheating also brings unfavourable comparisons. Football is undoubtedly blighted by this, seemingly getting worse the higher the level. I rarely watch top level football these days, and would cite the diving, feigning of injury and moaning and harassment of match officials as the main reasons. But rugby should be wary of taking the moral high ground here. Indeed it seems to delight in the dark deeds that take place in the ruck and scrum. How is it that this is considered entertainingly cunning and devious, while a footballer feigning contact while trying to win a penalty is horrendous cheating? The feigning aspect seems to be the key point, though again rugby should check itself here – the Bloodgate scandal of 2009, when Harlequins used joke shop capsules to fake a blood injury in order to return their best kicker to the field at a key moment of a Heineken Cup quarter final, was as bad or even worse than anything you will ever see on a football field. As George Orwell once said: “Serious sport has nothing to do with fair play. It is bound up with hatred, jealousy, boastfulness, disregard of all rules and sadistic pleasure in witnessing violence: in other words it is war minus the shooting.”

Where rugby wins hands down though and a key way in which it won my affections is the spirit in which it is played and indeed watched. The players will hammer the hell out of each other, but the swift and instant punishment of any backchat towards the referee is the one rugby thing that football folk often lament the lack of in their sport. The now legendary put-down from top referee Nigel Owens, reminding a mouthy player that “this is not soccer” perfectly illustrated this striking difference.

I love the fact that you can go to watch a rugby game without being herded around like cattle by police and mix happily with opposition fans. The passion of the rivalry between fans is a major selling point of football and I sincerely hope the game never becomes so sanitised that this disappears, but sometimes you really just want a quiet afternoon out to watch a decent game. This is often the difference for me now: I go to football for the experience of being a football fan, whereas I go to rugby to watch the game.

So what else has football got on rugby other than its elitism? A big claim is that it’s boring. I would completely refute that. Both sports are capable of producing desperately dull stalemates (though draws in rugby of course are a lot less common) or high scoring end-to-end rollercoaster rides. Football at the highest level is a game of incredible subtlety and finesse at times, but the speed, invention, handling skills and interplay of the best rugby sides can be equally spellbinding.

Football fans who also like the noisy little brother, Rugby League, are even worse in this regard. Personally I don’t like League much at all. I find it devoid of thought and tactics, often making for quite a dull spectacle. And I will never understand the claim of League fans that it’s a much harder game, when they have to stop after each (one- or two-on-one) tackle, compared to Union where you see umpteen bodies flying into a ruck, risking life and limb.  

Many of the misconceptions I feel are deeply ingrained and hark back to the amateur era, when rugby was a slower and arguably less exciting prospect. The game is now so vastly changed from even 20 years ago as to be almost unrecognisable. You have to hope the encroaching commercialism won’t turn rugby into the bloated, offensively cash-rich, self-important megalith that elite football has become in recent times. But the changes on the field are enormously welcome. The game is no longer a mud-wallowing battle slugged out between overweight barroom oafs, but a high-octane contest of strength and skill between frighteningly powerful, professional athletes.

Both games have served me well in life. Many of my oldest and most durable friendships are forged in football, while almost my entire social life during my three years living in Italy revolved around a wonderful group of disparate oddballs brought together by a shared love of rugby. Both sports have their good and bad points, but I just wish the more passionate fans of both could just live and let live. The often ignorant stereotyping, snobbishness towards the other side and comparisons are pointless for the most part and neither party comes out of them very well. You don’t have to like the other sport, but there’s no need to criticise those who do.  After all, at least it's not bloody tennis.



Sunday 2 February 2014

Fino alla fine


On three years of Italian football “trainspotting”…


Like many good Italian things, it all started in Tuscany: a balmy, midweek late summer evening at the Stadio Artemio Franchi (Montepaschi Arena) in Siena, and a Coppa Italia tie with Ternana. Aesthetically, the Artemio Franchi itself is nothing to write home about – three sides are temporary constructions – but the setting is one of the most beautiful I have ever watched sport in. Lying at the bottom of a tree-lined gulley, framed by views of the Duomo and Basilica Cateriniana di San Domenico at the top of the hill, special doesn’t do it justice, especially for a game at sunset in August. And it was only €2 to get in.


Stadio Artemio Franchi (Montepaschi Arena), Siena

Many of my friends probably suspected my decision to move to Italy for a few years was motivated to a large degree by my love of Italian football and desire for access to a rich seam of new grounds to tick off. To a large degree, they are probably right. My interest in the country, like many of my generation, was piqued by the Italia ’90 World Cup, and subsequently Channel 4’s coverage of Serie A from 1992.

The Italian football landscape I wandered into in 2010, however, was one blighted by corruption; the embers of Calciopoli barely having a chance to stop smouldering before Calcioscommese ignited. My 2010/11 season ended on a particularly sour note as I was present at the infamous AlbinoLeffe v Siena fixed game, which earned current Juventus head coach Antonio Conte a 9-month ban for his colluding part. There was also the supporter unrest triggered by the introduction of the Tessera del Tifoso. This ID card essentially compelled fans to record themselves on a police database just to be able to buy tickets to watch their team, and understandable caused uproar among the more passionate elements. I wrote a couple of pieces for When Saturday Comes on this* at the time so don’t want to get into it here, but suffice to say it cast a shadow over the period and occasionally affected my ability to get in to games.

So, back to Tuscany. I had barely a month of the season in the region, but managed to get in six grounds, and some wonderful games in predictably glorious weather. Possibly because of this and the fact it was my first residence in the country, some of my best football memories are from this short period. I will, for instance, never forget the passionate and unwavering support of the 30-odd L’Aquila ultras at Prato. Despite being baked in 34° heat, and their team being baked 3-0 on the pitch, they never let up for a minute. I had seen my “Channel 4 team” AC Milan both home and away on previous trips to Italy, but this was my first experience of the frenzied type of support any British fan of calcio hopes to witness.

Red Blue Eagles, L'Aquila ultras

The heat could actually be a bit of an issue at times. Those fascist era roofless concrete bowl stadiums that trap and intensify the heat are really not the most sensible design for a country where it does tend to get a bit warm. Poggibonsi and Viareggio, two more grounds oddly tucked away in pine woods, were notable examples of this. How the old guy with the walrus-like moustache roused himself to lead the Viareggio chanting as they closed out their victory over Virtus Lanciano, I will never know. I was ready to pass out.

From here it was something of a shock to the system to hit the cold and damp north following my move to Milan. If I thought I was leaving all possible beautiful viewing locations behind in Tuscany, I was wrong. Lecco’s Stadio Rigamonti-Ceppi, painted almost entirely in vivid sky blue and yellow inside and surrounded by mountains, is really something to see. Their ultras Gruppo Psycho with their Homer Simpson x-ray logo are highly entertaining too. I found another true oddity on a trip to see one of the most famous old names of Italian football, Pro Vercelli – trees being allowed to happily continue growing inside the ground. You wouldn’t get that in the Premier League.

It’s not that I was only trawling the lower leagues for my football fix though. A significant driver of my desire to live in Milan was to fulfill something of a dream to be a regular attendee at San Siro. On this front, I struck gold, as AC Milan won their first championship for a while in my first season there. Along the way I got to see my first Champions League game, and most gloriously, the derby. The time, effort and money that goes into the ultras’ pre-match displays at these events is unimaginable. The results are truly spectacular, and in most other contexts would be considered genuine works of art or artistic expression. At the Juventus game that season, I even got to be in the middle of one. As much fun and enjoyment I got out of the small games, ultimately this was why I was really out there.

Getting heated at the Milan derby

Frustrated by the über-zealous security arrangements in the professional leagues associated with the Tessera del Tifoso (nobody should ever need THREE attempts to get in to see Pro Patria), I found myself slipping further down the tree and investigating non-league. Serie D, like in England the highest level of non-league being the fifth tier of the overall structure, was  a particularly happy hunting ground. Also as in England, you find a number of ex-league clubs fallen on hard times, and with entry prices never usually more than a tenner and no ID required, it can be a more enjoyable experience than going to games in the Lega Pro (equivalent of English Leagues One and Two). My geographically most local club Pro Sesto were stuck down there after a brush with bankruptcy, and provided a nice easy afternoon out when I lacked the motivation to venture further afield.

My Italian football odyssey ended in 2013 on a suitably high note as I met my friend Matt, a fellow obsessive of the Channel 4 generation, in Rome for the final of the Coppa Italia. Not only a cup final, but a Rome derby to boot. Arriving in the area of the stadium a good four hours before kickoff, we found a wild street party already underway. Distress flares, smoke bombs, stun grenades; a passerby would have thought that Lazio had already won. Or that war had broken out. As it happened Lazio did win, and celebrated with ultras on the pitch and a live eagle being paraded with the cup. The oddities it seems do make it to the top level after all.

Those three years living in Italy contained as many high and low points as you would expect from a period living abroad, and were well reflected by my experiences with Italian football. There were certainly lows: being locked out of several games due to the ludicrous bureaucracy, the afternoons in murderous heat or brutal cold and rain when I doubted my sanity, some unnecessarily epic journeys on the idiosyncratic railway network. But the memorable moments always made up for it: the sound of a massive stadium falling utterly silent in an instant as Napoli’s did when Torino equalised with the last kick of the game, the entire Pro Vercelli team swallow-diving into a giant pool of standing water on a barely playable pitch, an aged Seregno club official getting into a physical fight requiring police intervention after instructing the ballboys to waste time during a relegation play-off. It may have its defects, but ultimately it is still the beautiful game. Fino alla fine, forza ragazzi.

National anthem and pre-match displays by the Roma and Lazio ultras before the Coppa Italia final

 


 The Spectre in Italy - grounds visited:

Atalanta 
Brescia
Caronnese 
Chievo Verona
Como
Cremonese
Empoli
Fiorentina
Lecco
Monza 
Napoli
Novara
Pergocrema
Pizzighetonne
Poggibonsi
Pontisola 
Prato
Pro Patria
Pro Sesto
Pro Vercelli
Real Milano 
Renate
Rondo Dinamo
San Siro (AC Milan and Internazionale)
Sandonatese
Seregno
Siena
Solbiatese 
Stadio Olimpico (Roma and Lazio)
Torino
Varese
Viareggio